CAMBODIA

Cambodia was totally shaken by the civil war in the 1970s and the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge. In talking to locals you'll find no-one untouched but the history is not taught in schools meaning they seem quite detatched from the murders and violence happening even to their own families.
Don't wander off the beaten track in the countryside - there are still 4-6 million landmines out there.

Go as soon as you can - you wont be allowed to walk all over the temples at Angkor for much longer.

Visas:

Obtained on arrival, $20 - take a photo and a good book - can be a lengthy queue at border crossings. Not available at Laos border crossing. As the land offices aren't always open you may want to save time by getting your visa before you go. Siem Reap has a new airport. There are usually many visa officials waiting for passengers in order to issue visas - and no line at all. Also Cambodia just started issuing e-visas in October, and the airport has signs up for e-visas at passport control. Check on line.

Money:

Riel though US dollars will be accepted anywhere. There are no ATMs so don't get caught short.

Places to go:

Siem Reap (see-em ree-ep)

Major tourist site for the temples - magnificent - "definitely one of the highlights!" Allow 3 days at least to really see the best temples - take a photo to buy your 3 day pass. See a sunset and a sunrise over the temples. Hire bicycles for flexibility, a tuk-tuk if there is 2-3 of you to see further afield temples or hire a motorbike driver from the airport as they're registered with the police so can be pretty much trusted to take care of you. This maybe the most cost effective and efficient way to go. They pick up at the guest house and drop off whenever you want, and will drive you around all day, but bring sunscreen.

to stay:
Local drivers know the town like the back of their hands - one who brought you from the border may have more 'difficulty' in finding your hotel. Lost? or conning you into staying in their uncle's place? Your choice but a pain either way.
From the airport hire a motorcycle driver (1US dollar) to get to a guest house or get a taxi for $5.

Guest houses 7-10 US dollars a night for real simple set up, 11+ for airconditioning, hot water. All rooms have fans. Hotels charge by the room, not the person and there are not many single rooms in Siem Reap.
Home Sweet Home - not bad at all. Safe and clean with friendly staff.
Peace of Angkor - http://www.peaceofangkor.com; european run, nice relaxed atmosphere, laundry and pick-ups available but book early at busy times (like christmas). Get a decent map or pick-up arranged as it is difficult to find.
Golden Banana - great people and great food.
Dead Fish Tower - (no, really!) cheap (US$12 a double room), clean and in a great location near the market. Includes air con, cable TV, hot shower and complimentary manicure! Can arrange tours and transportation and is connected to Dead Fish Restaurant which has delicious food at good prices, often with live music and traditional dancing. There is even a crocodile pit!
Garden Village Guesthouse - new, family-fun, quiet. Good choice.
La Villa Loti - great, mid-range price, but small and beautiful, in a quiet neighborhood - away from the tourist areas, so you can see local culture much easier.
The management are great and they don't charge the extra 5-10% tax on the rooms - so the price is the price. The airport pick-up is free. (Other hotels charge you 5-6 dollars for pick up.) http://www.lavillaloti.com resinf@lavillaloti.com)
__Villa Coconut__(Coconut Villa?) - around US$13 a night with A/C, hot water and cable.

to see:
The Temples! Dating from 9th - 13th centuries. Must sees: Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider back drop), Angkor Wat (most famous), Bayon (hugh faces watching you), Terrace of Elephants.

side note - at the temples you will be inundated with people wanting to sell you things. Alot of the sellers will be cute children. It's best to pick the first ones and buy from them. If you say 'I'll come back later' they wont forget you and you'll have to buy in the end. By then the prices will have maybe doubled but as they are still so cheap and the kids are so cute and smart, it's difficult to resist. They'll give you little notes and will tell you all the political details of your country and speak in your home language (whatever that may be!) if you ask.

Phnom Penh (puh-nom pen)

Shop in Phnom Penh which is a beautiful city.

to stay:
You'll be inundated with people offering you accomodation as you try to get off the boat. They will doubtless take you to a different hotel than the one they showed you but give it a chance.
Smile's Lakeside Guesthouse - maybe no AC, but a fan, and ridiculously cheap, like US$5 or less a night for two people. The people who work there are great, there is great food, and it is right along the lake, which is beautiful. Plus, they will arrange any sort of transportation/tours you need.
California 2 - A/C, hot water, cable and free breakfast for US$17 a night.

to see:
Tuol Sleng Museum - High School which became a detention and torture camp during the civil war of the 1970s and became known as S-21. Pretty horrific.
Killing Fields of Choeung Ek - thousands of people were taken from S-21 to be slaughtered and thrown into mass graves. Not even babies were spared and bones and clothes can still be seen. Incredibly thought provoking and sad.

Karatie

If you have time, make your way up to Karatie in the north. You can get there from Phnom Penh by bus, and it's pretty amazing. It's a dusty little town with some remnants of French architecture, some rare river dolphins, and pretty deep rural areas that you can tour on the back of motorbikes.

Leaving (and arriving)and travelling around:

Siem Reap to Phnom Penh:

This can be done cheaply and in a few hours on a bus, or you can take a boat down the Tonle Sap lake which is longer but much more of an experience. You can book it through your hotel and even though you will be given seat numbers, they're very full - get your seat inside, if sit on the roof you'll be stuck there. Book through your hotel.

to/from Bangkok:

In Bangkok there are 2 airlines that fly to Siem Reap. You can book them at the airport when you arrive, but they're cheaper online.

Buses booked through guest houses or travel agents - be warned! They should be cheap - $10-$20 so look around for prices. If they say it's 7 hours to Bangkok, it's a lie. It can be about 8 hours to the border. Some take longer, especially if they break down - and they do. They can also be very, very uncomfortable. "most extreme thing I've ever done in my life as far as transportation goes". Cramped seats, dust, heat, and a very bumpy ride. There's a couple of breaks for restroom and lunch.

The border crossing is a long, hot wait, busy and lots of beggars and people trying to get you in their bus or cab. You connect with another bus on the other side of the border. Thailand buses are usually better luxurious- aircon, movies in English, reclining seats.

OR take public transit to Poipet, cross the border and either take public transit to Siem Reap or hire a Camry taxi. If you have 4 people it's rather cheap and relatively comfortable - an adventure and a cool way to see the Cambodian countryside.

http://peaceofangkor.com - lots of advice on how to get to Cambodia from various places.

TOP TIPS:

Always negotiate a price before getting in a tuk tuk or moto. Even if you think they are becoming your friend it is not unusual for them to try to screw you on the price.

Home Stay (highly recommended)

Sambeth, a motorcycle driver in Battambang, sets up homestays at his uncle's house in a small village outside Battambang. The village is surrounded by rice fields and is comprised of 100 families. There is no running water or electricity. The village is not used to seeing foreigners and is extremely curious anytime anyone new stops by. They are so friendly and kind.
Sambeth speaks perfect English and can give you a motorcycle tour of the surrounding countryside during the day. His wife, a chef at a hotel in Battambang, cooks the breakfasts and dinners. Sambeth and his family are incredibly hospitable, hard-working, personable, and interested in learning about other people.
You can stay as long or as short as you want. There is a two day, two night package deal posted for couples that includes lodging, food, and a full day motorcycle tour for US$70 per couple, but you don't have to be a couple. You`ll learn tons more about rural living than you would if you simply stayed in guesthouses and hostels the whole time.
Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia and only four hours
from Siem Reap by bus. The home stay itself is in a village of 500
familes fifteen kilometers from Battambang. It's sort of like a Cambodian version of JET - not many foreigners, many curious stares (and a splash of curious, er...caresses), all very good-natured though. The family and villagers are quite nice and, as this is a
relatively new business, eager to stop by and see who you are. The website describes the village and has pictures: http://www.geocities.com/battambangvillagehomestay

JET holiday info

Cambodia