SOUTH KOREA

One of the best things about Korea is the lack of huge culture shock. It has a very similar feel to Japan, it's generally clean and safe and the people are friendly.

Money:

Won

Visas:

Visas are not needed for most visitors to South Korea for up to 90 days, 30 days for USA, Italy and Portugal 60 days and Canada 6 months.

Places to go:

Seoul

A nice relaxing city but not too exciting if that's what you're after. If you have a week or more try to get out and about if you can.

getting there
There's many buses from the airport that take you to the main areas thus avoiding huge taxi fees upon arrival. Cheap, convenient and clean but listen out for your stop! It takes about an hour to the city. For information and bus schedules in English - http://www.airport.or.kr/eng/airport/
A train line is being built but no ideas on when it will be complete.

to stay:
A "real" hotel in Seoul will cost around US$100 and up, unless you get a package deal through a travel agent. Budget hotels, hostels, guesthouses, etc. will cost you anywhere from US$15-25 per person. Many people say love hotels are the only way to go. Not always as kinky as Japanese ones, very cheap (about 30,000-50,000won per room), very clean and comfortable. They have central heating and there's lots of them. "Better than any of the Youth Hostels". You may have to tell them each morning if you will stay another night. (The sign for this kind of accommodation is the same as the Japanese onsen sign.)
The Seoul Motel - in Itaewon area - OK but a bit seedy. (Itaewon is well known for the US army soldiers who party there at night and people sell tons of cheap stuff in the streets.)
Seoul Backpackers Hostel - best place for your first night's stay. In a great spot near the subway and Insadong. Staff are friendly, there's a wealth of info in the lounge, but they have a curfew. http://www.seoulbackpackers.com
_Emerald Motel - close to Insadong, subways and airport bus 602-1. Cheap, TV, tea and coffee, hot and cold water on tap, many rooms have free internet (and complimentary condoms!). Rooms US$40.
Stay Korea - you can stay in dorm or private rooms. It's decent and clean and is in the university district so lots to do. Contact them direct at Tel: 02-336-9026; Mobile: 011-9026-2627; staykorea@yahoo.co.kr http://www.staykorea.co.kr/
Seoul Guesthouse - Perfect location in a 100-year-old hanok with very friendly hostess/manager Mrs. Lee. Accommodations are spartan but the place is atmospheric and cheap. http://www.seoul110.com
Kim's Guesthouse - http://www.kimsguesthouse.com/

to see:
Jogyesa Temple - large and beautiful temple. If you have time do half day temple stays where you learn about the life and live it a tiny bit. "You'll never forget the four bowl lunch."
Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung - Temples surrounding the backpacker hostel are pretty good.
Tapgol Park - small, peacful park containing an ancient marble pagoda, protected by a large glass case.
Seoul Tower - fantastic views of the city, especially at night. You can catch a cable car up to to the base of the tower, or a bus from Chung-muro subway stop.
Namdaemun/Sungnyemun - the south gate, National Treasure number 1 and stunning. NEWS FLASH - the Namdaemun gate was destroyed by an arsonist on about 10th February 2008! Scaffolding went up quickly and repairs will be made. Watch this space for updates.
Gyeongbokgung - the main palace in the centre of Seoul. Take a few hours to wander round and look at the gardens and buildings.
The Hammering Man - a bizarre huge moving statue close to the museum of history.
Nanta - a cooking/ taiko performance which is just insane. Most hotels have information leaflets about it.

shopping, eating and drinking:
Itaewon is the place as well as the student section (esp for shopping). The clothes are funky and you get to see Korean students and their fashion sense. The back streets of Itaewon are a mass of bars.
Namdaemun Market - traditional day and night market which sells everything! Great even just for walking round and getting a real idea of Korean life.
Insadong-gil - small street near Tapgol Park. Has loads of little arty/crafty shops - great for gifts and trying out food from the stalls.
Starbucks - (no, really!). The Insadong branch has a great breakfast special with bagels or croissants for a few hundred yen.
About two doors down is a fantastic, cheap Korean restaurant with a picture and English menu. It gets busy but is really worth checking out.

Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) - Panmunjeom

55km north of Seoul, Panmunjeom is the only place that visitors to South Korea can visit the 4km division between North and South Korea. Its very accessible and busy with tourists. Can be done on a day or half day trip from Seoul.
It's easy to arrange a tour there (you have to go with a tour group). The US run tour is reportedly the best as it takes you to see North and South Korean soldiers literally face-to-face. It's twice a week and you need to book in advance. Even if you aren't into history or politics, it's really interesting. You get to see some really amazing sites at the border but it's more of the feeling you get being there and learning about the conflict. You can go into one of the tunnels that the North Koreans dug to invade the South. http://www.uso.org/korea

Suwon

If you want to stay close to Seoul. See the old fortress walls. It's only an hour south of Seoul by bus.

Gwangju

About 4 and a half hours south from Seoul by fast train. Interesting and possible to do on a group trip by bus.

Pusan

On the south coast - by KTX (Korea's Shinkansen) you can make it down there in under 3 hrs for less than 5000yen! It's also where the ferries leave to Japan (see below). Check out the New Year celebrations on Gwangali Beach. There are hundreds of helium balloons available with small slips of paper attached to them. Write your wish for the New Year on the paper and at dawn when the sun breaks the horizon everyone lets them go. The beautiful scene nearly makes up for the ungodly hour and bone-chilling cold (bring a hefty coat!)

Sokcho/ Seoraksan

Sokcho is a small city on the east coast which is also the main gateway to Seoraksan National Park. The southern end of the city around the Express Bus Terminal has a beautiful small beach and loads of sea/see food restaurants where you can pass the death sentence on your dinner.
getting there:
Take a bus/ferry/bus combination through Chuncheon (the lakes around there are gorgeous) to get to Sokcho, which is a 2.5-day affair, or catch a bus all the way from Seoul to Sokcho, between 3 and 5 hours. The buses cost between US$15-23, and have seats that recline to almost horizontal. The quickest bus from the Intercity Bus Terminal in the north of Sokcho goes up through fantastic scenery.

to stay:
Most hotels in the Seoraksan area up the prices by about 60% in the peak summer season.
Seorak Garden Motel on the outskirts of Seorak-san National Park itself, at the eastern end in Seorak-dong. Just a short bus trip to the park. Double room about US$30. Clean and quiet.
Seorak Oncheonjang - on the southern end of the park. Perfectly adequate, not luxurious, but private and quiet and clean with a free downstairs onsen for guests. Double room US$30.
Samsung Motel - close to the Express Bus Terminal in Sokcho and the bus to Seoraksan goes from just outside. Looks like a Barbie pink fairy castle outside, but clean, lovely rooms with hot and cold drinking water machine, TV, central heating, restaurant attached. Double room US$30.

to see:
There are hiking trails suitable for all levels of fitness. The jagged mountain scenery at Seorak-san is incredibly stunning and very different from that of Japan.
If you are an experienced and energetic hiker, you can go from the east end of the park to the south end in one day, a 13-hour extravaganza through gorgeous waterfall-strewn valleys and up over the peak of Daecheongbong. Longer hikes are available too, but take a Korean guide.
In Seorak-dong at the eastern end there are easier, shorter hikes to other nearby waterfalls and up the rock pinnacle of Ulsan bawi. This is a fantastic hike but the last 1km is hard going. The views as far as the sea make it worth it but not recommended in summer.
Even if you're not up for a lot of climbing around, there's a cable-car near the park entrance which will whisk you up to the top of Gwongeumseong mountain for a simply breathtaking view out over the peaks on one side and the coast on the other. The safety rails are at a minimum and you can crawl all over the mountain tops like a mountain goat! Wear sensible shoes! For a sneak preview of the views check out:
http://english.tour2korea.com/03Sightseeing/TravelSpot/travelspot_read.asp?oid=1822&konum=subm1_1&kosm=m3_6

eating and drinking:
If you stay in south Sokcho and bus to and from Seoraksan, the bus drops you off right by a take-out cafe. They do excellent cheap toasted sandwiches, fresh juice drinks and coffees. They are open 8am till 10pm and the lady is really nice.

TOP TIPS:

On the last Friday of the month go out for club nite. Pay the entry price to one club and it lets you into to 15 clubs for the night. It's in the student area. Travelling solo? just hook up at backpacker hostels and it should be a fun night out.
See traditional Korean dancing
It's recommended having your first night booked as English speakers aren't that abundant at the airport.
It's cold in Korea in winter but Seoul throws a great New Year's party in the centre of town near the shrine where TV personalities ring in the New Year.
Korea has its own celebrations round Japanese Golden Week time. The first Sunday in May is the celebration of Buddha's birthday, May 5th is children's festival and the last weekend in April is the Lantern Festival. There are great parades in the centre of Seoul, large open air parties and discounts in shops and hotels. It can be great to watch but can severely interfere with your sightseeing plans.

Getting there:

Ferry:

There's 2 main ferry companies that run from Fukuoka's Hakata Port to Pusan in Korea, both at only 3-4 hours. You can get a bus straight from Tenjin to the ferry terminal and you can get a ticket and details from any travel agent. The boats are high-speed, hydro-foils that ride on skis above the water so your ride is very smooth. The seats are like an airplane and a movie is played for your entertainment.
Once in Pusan, the port is in the center of town. There's a big map in English and an information desk where you can get a good English map with the major sites, all public transportation information and hotels. "We lived by this map".

The Japan-based company is the JR Beetle. Buy a special pass to get your round trip ferry ticket plus a certain number of days on the Korean Railways. It's not always cheaper, though, so calculate how much you'd need it for - rates on the KoRail are SOOO much cheaper than JR! Price - 13,000-en one way; 24,000-en round trip. http://www.jrbeetle.co.jp/ - (Japanese only)

The Korea-based company is Kobee (a.k.a. Mirejet) or Camellia. The boats are a bit smaller but just as safe. Since they're less popular in Japan, you may find it easier to get tickets, especially at peak times. They also do deals for KoRail. Prices range from 16,800-en - 24,000-en round trip, depending how long you stay. http://www.mirejet.com/jp/ - (Japanese/Korean only, but easily navigatable)

There's usually only 2 or 4 sailings a day each direction, so not much flexibility.

You can also get a ferry from Shimonoseki that takes 16hours overnight for 9,000-en.

Buy two one way tickets - the first in Japan and then buy a return ticket when you reach Korea. The cost of a ticket purchased in Korea or through a Korean company is often about half the price of a ticket purchased in yen.

Flights:

Two main options are Korean Air or Asiana Air. Asiana can be more expensive, but it depends on the current deal. It's best to go through your travel agent. Check out their websites first for the rates/specials, then go in and talk to the agent in person. They often run specials to Korea for around 16,000 (Tokyo/Kansai/Fukuoka dep). Regular price is 19,000-22,000-en. Peak season price can run up to 30,000-70,000-en. The best online booking is through either eTour.co.jp or ANA's website (NB: they're a partner airline with Asiana & part of Star Alliance; only use them if you find a special fare because regular prices are much higher).

Links:

http://www.koryotours.com/index.html - independent travel and group tours.
http://www.korail.go.kr/ROOT/main-top.top?lang=eng - you can get a rail pass to travel around with.
http://www.geocities.com/origami_kanagawa/0503/mar05_seoul.html - an article written by a JET about what to do in Seoul.
http://english.tour2korea.com/ - loads of info and links on what to do, where to stay and how to get around.

JET holiday info

Korea